The Magic of Bwindi

 After coming across an amazing organization called ConservationThrough Public Health (CTPH) while perusing the internet a couple weeks ago, we were able to schedule a meeting with one of their staff in their coordinating office in Kampala. CTPH’s aim is to achieve gorilla conservation by enabling humans, wildlife, and livestock to coexist through improving primary health care and disease surveillance in and around Africa’s protected areas. We went into the meeting only expecting to receive an overview of their work but ended up leaving their offices scheduled to head out to Buhoma Village in Bwindi the following day! All of these plans came into fruition after we were introduced to Stephen, one of the project officers and lead biologists who heads out to Bwindi only once a month to analyze samples of gorilla feces for disease surveillance and to manage other projects (to learn more about activities/projects being done by CTPH, check out their website: http://www.ctph.org/). After learning about our background, education, and interests, he informed us that this would probably be the most ideal and only time we could visit CTPH before we had to return to the States.  With the CTPH truck already scheduled to leave the next day, the ten hour drive to Bwindi would already be available for us. We knew we had to take up the offer and packed our bags that night.

The next morning, we were scheduled to leave at 10AM. To make a long story short, a consultant who was coming with us for one of their fish ecology and conservation projects was late from bringing fish from a village three hours away.  He also needed to purchase fish food once he arrived. We ended up traveling three hours around the city until we found a fish/chicken feed house that carried the appropriate type of fish feed for the project.  We were finally on the road by 5PM and traveled over twelve hours to reach Bwindi at five in the morning.

The next several days, we got to work. We learned about the various projects being done by CTPH, helped Stephen with his gorilla dung analyses in his lab, and even visited the community hospital nearby. In addition, we went into the village to build a water trough so that the livestock in the community could have access to clean/uncontaminated water (one of CTPH’s projects to prevent disease transmission). 

Since we were unable to secure permits to track gorillas before our trip to Uganda, we were not expecting to see the mountain gorillas. All of the tour companies we contacted in early June had informed us that they were sold out until the end of August. We had therefore not planned to make the long journey out to Bwindi until this unexpected arrangement with CTPH. Since we had traveled all the way to Bwindi, however, Caitlin and I still wanted to see the forest. We arranged to go on a 3-hour waterfall hike into the park that was offered through the Uganda Wildlife Authority every morning.   When we went to arrange a guide for the hike at the main office, the receptionist asked us if we had already gone to track gorillas because a discounted price was offered for the waterfall hike. I expressed that we had failed to schedule our gorilla permits ahead of time and unfortunately would not be able to do so because we were told that they were all sold out till the end of August. The receptionist informed us, however, that there are sometimes a few permits left over that all the tour agents are unable to book. He told us that there had been four spots this morning. Upon realizing that the opportunity to track gorillas was still available, we asked if there were spots open for the next day- the day we were scheduled to leave Bwindi and head back to Kampala. He said he would check with the main UWA offices and if there were, he would save them for us. After an amazing hike through the forest to see a spectacular waterfall, we returned to learn that Caitlin and I would be on our way to see the mountain gorillas the following day. 

Words cannot express my experience tracking the mountain gorillas through the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest. It was definitely one of the toughest hikes I have ever done. There were spectacular views. It was an incredible journey to an indescribable encounter with one of the world’s most beautiful and remarkable creatures. If anyone ever makes a trip out to Uganda- this is a must.

The people in Bwindi are the nicest and friendliest people we have ever met since our stay in Uganda. The Buhoma community is so welcoming and the culture and feel of the environment is extraordinary. The work that CTPH is doing is spectacular as are the number of other organizations and initiatives occurring in the area. Our “weekend trip” ended up being over five days and it was one of the best and most unforgettable experiences yet! Words cannot describe how fortunate I am to have experienced the true magic of Bwindi!

Our 12 hour drive to Bwindi took us through the Equator!

I was in the North and in the South at the same time. This was my first time South of the Equator!

We arrived at CTPH at 5AM and woke up the next morning to find ourselves in a beautiful campsite/conservation area.

Our permanent tent was surrounded by lush trees. The birds woke us up every morning with their song and chatter.

We even had a toilet in our tent!

Our "sink" was great.

Our mosquito-netted beds were great too.

Alex, one of the project directors, gave us a talk they give to the community to promote family planning practices.

We visited the Bwinidi Community Hospital and learned about the much needed services it provides for the health and well-being of the Bwindi people.

Proper nutrition for newborns and infants is very important.

The hospital was covered with various health promotion messages throughout the different units.

I was glad to find out that these newborns and their mothers are doing very well.

The CTPH conducts a number of projects to promote the health of the Bwinidi community and the surrounding wildlife.

We got an overview of one of their fish and ecology projects. It is aimed at finding a sustainable way to increase the fish available in the surrounding rivers.

Stephen, the biologist, provides us with an overview of the work he does in the lab to prevent disease and preserve the health of  the mountain gorillas in Uganda.

The Uganda Wildlife Authority collects gorilla feces once a month and brings them to the lab for analyses. This month, we were analyzing the dung of the Rushunguru gorilla family.

I never thought I would be examining gorilla dung for disease surveillance. It was quite smelly.

We began prepping the dung for examination. The gloves were important.

We were able to identify a number of worms and eggs in the feces. A small number of eggs and worms is normal for gorillas and only becomes a problem when the EPG (eggs per gram)  is too high.

A major outbreak of scabies in 1996 was what initially started the disease surveillance program to develop an early warning system for disease outbreaks between people and wildlife. Since gorillas share 96% of the same genetic makeup as humans, they are susceptible to many human diseases. This is one of reasons why it is important to control and prevent disease transmission between people and the gorillas.

We went into the villages to build a water trough for safe drinking water for the livestock. If the livestock drink from contaminated rivers, they too, are susceptible to a number of health related threats.

The children in the villages were beautiful.

We learned how to use all natural materials to build a permanent trough for the livestock.

Although we thought the mud we used to cement the trough would eventually wash away from the rain, we learned the proper building techniques that would ensure that it would last with minimal maintenance.

With the number of hands helping out, we were able to accomplish a lot in one day.

We went on a hike through the forest to reach a waterfall.  I felt like I was walking through an enchanted forest in a storybook. I was absolutely in love with the scenery. It was breathtaking every step of the way.

The vines that hung from the trees were my favorite and so fun. I really wanted to stay here forever.

A number of bridges took us over bubbling streams.

It was gorgeous!!!!!!!

Hands down, this was one of the most beautiful and serene hikes I have ever gone on. I felt one with nature!

These monkeys greeted us along our hike.

We reached the waterfall! The weather was perfect!

The next morning, we started our adventure to track the mountain gorillas.

We climbed half way up one mountain, had to go back down and start up another one, and climb over the second to get to the valley where the gorillas were. We started with walking sticks and at some points needed to get on our hands, feet, and knees to climb up vertical inclines. We used everything from grass, roots, rocks, and branches to help us along the way and hoped that they were strong enough to hold us. The 3 hour climb was the most intense hike of my life. They call it Bwindi "Impenetrable" national park for a reason !

We finally reached the Rushunguru family and I was so happy to meet them!

The gorillas are a gentle species and live in relatively stable, cohesive groups held together by long-term bonds between adult males and females.

Conservation efforts have led to an increase in overall population of the mountain gorillas in the Virungas and at Bwindi. The overall population is now believed to be approximately 790 individuals.

The mountain gorilla is primarily a herbivore; the majority of its diet is composed of the leaves, shoots and stems.

I was in love! So beautiful!

Who knew that I would track the same gorilla family whose dung I had analyzed the prior day! Thanks to a serendipitous chain of events, I was actually able to fulfill the true African dream!

We drove back home at the break of dawn to return to Kampala. The 10 hour trip back home was breathtaking as we drove through various landscapes and green. We even had to stop along the way for a family of three antelopes running across the road!

I am now back in Kampala and feel like my experience in Bwindi was all a dream. I already miss the people, the landscape, and the wildlife of Bwindi. To learn more about mountain gorillas, CTPH, and the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest check out the following links: 

CTPH

Bwindi ImpenetrableNational Park

Friend-A-Gorilla